Interesting Question Archive

Dog Diet

My dog is overweight and I am concerned about the health risks of obesity. Should I be concerned? What is the best way to get the weight off?

This is an excellent question, because the number one nutritional disorder we see is OVER NUTRITION. In the United States we are blessed with an abundance of food. Even the poorest people in our country suffer the health problems of obesity. Obesity in dogs is not just a cosmetic problem. There are serious health implications of being overweight. Studies have shown that hip dysplasia is 4 times more common in obese dogs than it is in lean dogs. Also, obese dogs die an average of almost 2 years younger than thin dogs. Fat is not just a storage depot for extra calories. It is a big producer of free radicals. These are chemicals that contribute to aging and health problems such as cancer. The age of onset of chronic diseases like heart failure, kidney and liver failure, and cancer occur almost 2 years earlier in obese dogs than in dogs that are fit. Some dogs are obese due to a medical condition like low thyroid hormone, or excess cortisone. Be sure your dog has a physical exam before starting a weight loss program. Sometimes blood tests are needed to rule out a medical condition.

Almost every one of our clients is in disbelief when we tell them that their dog is overweight. We are simply used to seeing mostly overweight dogs, so we think our dog must be OK. The “rule of thumb” for gauging obesity is that you should be able to feel you dog’s ribs easily without seeing them. Once we have determined that a diet is in order, we can tailor it to your dog’s specific needs and goals.

Exercise is of great value and you should be sure your dog is getting plenty of activity. As they say “it takes muscle to burn fat.” For dogs and humans, the same general principles of dieting apply. We used to think that is was simply a matter of taking in less calories than you burn up. Now we know that taking in less calories alone will result in loss of lean body mass as well as fat. We want your dog to maintain muscle, not lose it. The best weight loss diets are those that reduce calories AND INCREASE PROTEIN. The best way to reduce calories is to decrease the amount of fat that you eat. A gram of fat has 2.5 times the calories as a gram of carbohydrate or protein. It is also important to reduce the amount of soluble (easy to digest) carbohydrates. These are the starches like rice, corn, potatoes etc. As with human diets, think high protein, low fat, high fiber, low soluble carbs. This makes beans among the best weight loss foods around. Beans are very high in protein, they are non-fat, high in fiber and low in soluble carbs. Other foods that can be included in your dog’s weight loss program are: anything in the squash family such as zucchini, yellow squash, cucumbers, sweet and dill pickles, acorn squash; frozen mixed vegetables (these can be fed frozen, steamed or microwaved); most fruit (avoid raisins and grapes as these are poisonous to dogs).

Things that you can use to flavor the beans or veggies include stewed tomatoes (Italian or Mexican flavorings work well), fat free chicken or beef broth, soy sauce, mild salsa, ketchup, etc. You may add herbs and seasonings if your dog prefers. Garlic and onions should be kept to a minimum as these can cause anemia if fed in large quantities. Don’t worry about the salt content of canned vegetables unless your dog has congestive heart failure.

Some clients fear the possibility of gas and flatulence if dogs are fed beans. This does not occur commonly. We find this to be more of a problem just by changing brands of dog food than with feeding a bean diet. Green beans are a good component of a weight loss program, but they are not as nutritious or as good of a protein source as other beans. I prefer canned beans because they are pre cooked and ready to serve. Just about every type of bean is acceptable. Pinto, white, northern, black, red, refried beans, chickpeas, black-eyed peas etc. Carrots should be cooked or canned if possible because large pieces of raw carrots can cause and intestinal blockage. Frozen beans and other vegetables are fine too.

There are many commercially prepared weight loss foods for dogs on the market. You can try these first if you prefer, but whatever method you choose, be sure to weigh your dog regularly to monitor their progress. You are always welcome to bring your dog in to the clinic to use our walk-on scale. Have the receptionist record your dog’s weight in the medical record. As always, if you have any questions or concerns call us at the clinic: (703) 455-6222

Ticks and Lyme Disease

I just pulled a tick off my dog. Should I be worried about Lyme disease?

Well, the answer to that question is yes, and no. Mostly no. The spring and early summer are the peak times for tick exposure. Ticks in our area can carry Lyme disease, but fortunately dogs (and cats) have a good natural immunity to Lyme disease. Lyme disease in dogs is characterized by severe pain and swelling in the joints. The good news is that the disease is effectively treated with routine antibiotics. A large number of dogs have positive Lyme disease tests due to exposure, but they never were sick from Lyme disease. Ticks carry a number of other diseases far worse than Lyme disease such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, and Ehrlichiosis.

We are often asked about Lyme disease vaccination. We don’t give the vaccine because it has not reduced the incidence of Lyme disease. We are concerned about the possibility of the vaccination inducing an immune mediated attack on the kidneys if a vaccinated dog is exposed to the Boriella bergdorferi organism. The human vaccine for Lyme disease has been pulled off the market due to similar concerns about potential risks and side effects of the vaccine.

Far and away the best approach to managing all tick borne diseases is to avoid tick exposure. It takes about 48 hours for a tick to transmit the known diseases to your pet. There are several products that reduce tick exposure. For dogs, our favorite is the Preventic® collar. It is effective for 3+ months. Unfortunately this collar does not control fleas. If you are concerned about fleas and ticks, use Frontline Plus®. This is safe for dogs and cats and works well against fleas and ticks. If your pet spends any time in the water, this is a good choice because it does not wash off. Frontline Plus® must be applied topically every 3-4 weeks. Other topical products are Advantix® and Protical®. We don’t carry these products because their accidental use on cats could be fatal.

No product will stop ticks from getting on your pet. Some ticks may even attach, but should be killed before they can transmit any disease. As always, if you have any questions please call our office at (703) 455-6222

So You Want to Be a Veterinarian?

I have often thought that I might want to be a veterinarian. What are the educational and work experiences required to be a veterinarian?

I’m delighted to hear that you are interested in becoming a veterinarian. It is a challenging and rewarding career with many options for employment in industry, private practice and public service. Veterinarians work in the military, for pharmaceutical companies, in state and federal government agencies, as livestock veterinarians, on fish farms, as well as in companion animal practices, zoos, wildlife parks, laboratories, and so on.

The educational requirements are that you receive a high school diploma, and complete at least 2 years of college before entering veterinary school. You must pass courses in Physics, Organic Chemistry, and General Biology (each with a lab). Most veterinary students have completed a Bachelor’s Degree, but some are admitted after 2-3 years of college. The competition is great. There are typically 10 applicants for every available slot in U.S. veterinary schools compared to 1 applicant for every 4 slots in U.S. medical colleges. Most applicants have some work experience in veterinary clinics or on farms prior to admission into the veterinary program. State residency requirements are strict, and so most students from Virginia will attend the veterinary school at Virginia Tech in Blacksburg. Some students will attend veterinary school in a foreign country for 1-4 years before transferring to a U.S. veterinary school.

Once you are admitted to veterinary school, you must complete 4 years of education resulting in a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree. The course work is challenging. The first 2 years are spent learning basic sciences of anatomy, physiology, biochemistry, and pharmacology. The third year is spent studying disease processes and their treatments. The fourth year is spent in the teaching hospital managing actual cases with supervision by veterinary specialists and instructors. During the fourth year of veterinary school, the student must pass the National Board Exam and the Clinical Competency tests. After graduation the student must then meet the individual requirements for the particular state in which they want to practice. Once these requirements are met, the veterinarian is free to begin practice.

Unlike physicians, veterinarians (and dentists) are not required to complete internships or residencies before practice, but most will work in a clinic with other veterinarians as mentors. There is a growing trend in companion animal medicine for veterinarians to pursue specialization in a particular field such as ophthalmology, dermatology, surgery, and so on. These individuals will spend 1 year at a veterinary school or specialty practice as a general intern, and then approximately 3 years in a residency program eventually becoming certified by the “Board” of their particular field of study. In order to claim the title of “Specialist” the individual must be certified by a group of specialists that are recognized by the American Veterinary Medical Association.

As you can see, becoming a “Veterinarian” can lead to many career options. Good luck on your quest!

Heartworm Disease

Q: Should I be concerned about Heartworms?

A: Absolutely yes! Heartworms are carried by mosquitoes and are primarily found in canines (dogs, wolves, foxes, coyotes etc.) but they have been reported in other species as well. Besides our pet dogs, ferrets are also easily infected. Fortunately cats (as well as people) generally mount an immune response that protects them from infection.

The process starts when a mosquito feeds on a dog or other canine that has heartworms. The mosquito will ingest microscopic larvae in their blood meal. If the average daily temperature is over 56ºF, the larvae will go through changes that will allow it to infect your dog when it feeds again. As the mosquito feeds the second time, the infective heartworm larvae crawl into the skin and begin their journey toward the lungs. Once they reach the lungs, they penetrate small arteries and proceed to the right side of the heart where they remain. The journey from the mosquito bite to adult worms in the dog's heart takes about 6-8 months. The presence of these 6-10 inch long worms in the heart causes the dog's body to lay down plaques on the pulmonary arteries. These plaques eventually block all blood flow to the lungs causing the heart to enlarge. Dogs usually die within 2 years from severe heart failure.

Dog's heart with heartworms

Besides the ultimate fatal nature of heartworm disease in dogs, the treatment options are limited to multiple injections of a compound in the arsenic family of chemicals. The injections are painful and can cause severe inflammation at the injection site. The treatment and corresponding blood tests, X-rays and follow up care are very expensive as well.

The best news about canine heartworm disease is that it is completely preventable. Dogs that live in this area should take monthly heartworm preventative YEAR ROUND! The reason for giving it in the winter is to control intestinal parasites as well as heartworms. If you give the preventative year round your dog will have the best likelihood of being worm free. Most "ivory tower" experts recommend testing every year for heartworms and intestinal worms. At the Burke Veterinary Clinic we find that not to be a worthwhile expenditure of your money. After testing all dogs for over 8 years without finding a single positive dog we decided that the annual test was only necessary if dogs were not getting the preventative regularly. If your dog misses one dose, but gets the next two months in a row, the heartworm prevention is virtually 100% effective. If you are off by 2 weeks in giving the preventative, your dog is still 100% protected. DO NOT BE CARELESS WITH HEARTWORM PREVENTION. The disease is fatal. The treatment is harsh and costly. The disease is completely preventable. If your dog has been off the preventative for more than 1 dose between May and October, it should have a blood test right away and get started on the preventative immediately. A helpful way to remember to give the preventative is to use your computer’s calendar program to send you an email alert once a month. Do not delete the message from your inbox until you have given the preventative.

Heartworm preventatives are not the same as over-the-counter dewormers. They are prescription only products. Heartgard®, Interceptor®, Sentinel® Iverheart®, and Proheart® are the only effective oral heartworm preventatives.

Among the biggest mistakes pet owners make is to think that “My dog doesn’t go outside, so I don’t need to use the preventative.” This is naïve and very risky. Your dog will go outside to relieve itself 2-3 times a day primarily when mosquitoes are most active. This is playing Russian Roulette with your dog’s life. The first dog that I diagnosed with heartworm disease was a 6 year old Miniature Poodle that only went out twice a day to relieve itself. Putting this dog through the arsenic injections made a very strong impression on me and its guilt ridden owner.

Best Dog Food

What is the best food for my dog?

There are many opinions regarding proper feeding of dogs. Some people advocate premium brands while others prefer canned food over dry. The truth of the matter is that there is no convincing scientific evidence to say that any food is better for your pet than another. Breeders, dog trainers, groomers, pet store employees, shelter and animal rescue workers all have their favorite dietary recommendations. Unfortunately few of these individuals have any advanced (or even rudimentary) education in biochemistry, physiology, or nutrition. The result is an alarming amount of misinformation. When studies compare dog food side by side, no one can tell which dogs were fed which foods. The most common nutritional disease we see is OVERNUTRITION. Obesity is rampant among the human and animal populations in the United States. We have shown clearly that thin dogs live 2 years longer than fat dogs. Purina® funded the study that demonstrated this fact. If a pet food manufacturer pays for and publishes a study that says we should feed less pet food, I believe them.

Although canned food is nutritionally complete and adequate, most of our canine patients that eat canned food are obese (it is the exact opposite for felines). If you feed canned food you must pay attention to portion control and weigh your dog regularly. Optimum body condition is reached when you can feel your dog’s ribs, but you cannot see them. For dogs with heavy coats, you should use your hands to feel over the ribcage for any jiggle.

There is no advantage to feeding puppy food. The nutritional requirements of puppies are met fully with adult dog food. Puppies should be fed 2-3 times per day. They should be offered enough so that they walk away with food left in their bowl. The food should be left out for a maximum of 10 minutes. As puppies reach 3-4 months of age, limit the feeding to 2 times per day. Rapid growth in puppies leads to orthopedic problems, hip dysplasia, and arthritis later in life. Puppies that grow up skinny are healthier than puppies that grow up chubby.

Although we don’t have any particular brand preference for dog food, we do recommend avoiding “generic” dog foods and “wholesale club” brands. The way they keep their costs low is often by changing the ingredients to whatever is cheap at the time. It is best to keep the same food throughout your dog’s life. Don’t buy whatever is on sale or whatever you have a coupon for. Don’t waste your money on “premium” brands that you can only get at special stores. As long as you feed a national brand that you’ve heard of before, you should be fine. Stick with names like Purina®, Alpo®, Pedigree®, etc. Some dogs do better on brand A, B, C, or D, but others will do better on brand X, Y, or Z.

In summary, feed what ever your dog likes. Don’t buy into the marketing hype of premium or trendy dog foods. Stick with the same food. Don’t overfeed.

Medical Care for a New Puppy

This month's question is directly from our website Contact Us section:

We are getting a new puppy and want to know what medical procedures we should expect and how much will it cost?

I will try to be as complete and accurate as possible, but costs change over time, and much of the total expenditures will depend on the age of the puppy.

First and foremost, it is best to bring the puppy directly from the breeder/pet store/rescue group to the clinic for its first check up BEFORE TAKING IT HOME. We set aside double the regular appointment time at no extra cost to be sure you have ample opportunity to ask questions regarding your new puppy. The main reasons for wanting to see the puppy right away include examining and treating for external and internal parasites. 98% of puppies and kittens harbor roundworms and hookworms. If left untreated for just a few weeks, your yard can be contaminated with over 100,000 eggs of these parasites. These worms can be contagious to humans ( especially small children) . Many breeders attempt to de-worm puppies for roundworms and hookworms, but they often use ineffective drugs or ineffective dosages. One of the biggest challenges to parasite control is that when an animal has worms, it will only be positive on a stool check 50% of the time. That is why we at the Burke Veterinary Clinic de-worm all puppies and kittens at least 2-3 times during their first few visits. We also perform a specialized test for a parasite called Giardia. This new Giardia Specific Eliza test has been extremely valuable in finding this protozoal organism in puppies especially from breeders and shelters. This parasite is also contagious to people and can cause severe diarrhea. The Burke Veterinary Clinic is one of the few animal clinics in the area to use state of the art zinc sulfate ultracentrifugation technique for fecal analysis. Although more time consuming, the yield is significantly higher than with traditional floatation techniques. We also use a direct exam with special stains for bacteria and other microscopic organisms. Believe me this thorough analysis is not "just a stool check." For more information on intestinal parasites check out the CDC web page: http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dpd/parasites/ascaris/prevention.htm

Many new puppies will arrive with ear mites, fleas, ticks and occasionally even scabies. These conditions are sometimes obvious, but in the early course of the infestation, the parasites may not be apparent. Because of this, we at the Burke Veterinary Clinic treat all puppies with an anti-parasitic topical called selemectin. This compound is very effective against these parasites, and it also acts as a heartworm preventative. After 2 treatments, your puppy will be parasite free and ready to begin oral heartworm preventative. Because Interceptor® and Heartgard Plus® have action against heartworms and intestinal parasites, we encourage all dog owners to give the medicine once a month year round for the rest of your pet's life.

Puppies ideally begin their vaccination schedules at 8 weeks of age. We recommend vaccinating against Distemper, Parvovirus, Bordetella, and Rabies. The Distemper/Parvo vaccine is boosted every 2-4 weeks until the puppy is over 12-14 weeks of age. The Rabies is given between 12-14 weeks of age. We have had questions regarding the need for other vaccines, and although we could dramatically increase our revenues by recommending extra vaccines, we feel that it is not in your pet's best interest to be over vaccinated. There is not compelling evidence for us to recommend vaccination against Lyme Disease, Corona Virus, etc. Other practitioners may have a different opinion. If we see 2000 dogs per year and were paid a conservative $30 extra per dog, over my 20 years of practice I would have an additional $1.2 million in the bank.

Once the puppy series of vaccinations is completed your dog should be spayed or neutered at around 6 months of age. If you are not convinced that you want to get your pet spayed or neutered, read our section on the health benefits of these procedures.

During your first visits we will examine the pup for birth defects or other medical problems, as well as discussing preventative health measures. Nutrition, dental health, reproductive health, behavior, training and exercise are some of the topics covered during the first few puppy visits. We encourage all family members to participate in the puppy health checks. Especially children!

The total cost of all of the above will depend on the age of your puppy when we first see it, as well as if it is a male or a female (spaying females is about $100 more than neutering a male). You can expect to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $200-$500 to get the puppy through the first year of medical procedures. This is about a fourth of what most of our clients spend on dogs they purchase from a breeder. If you have any questions regarding this or any other topic, call our office at 703-455-622

Best Cat Food

What is the best food for my cat to eat?

We have had some interesting new developments in our understanding of cat physiology and it has prompted us to re-evaluate our feeding recommendations for cats. The embarrassing part is that it took so long for the veterinary community to come to what I think is an obvious conclusion. Cats are pure obligate carnivores. They only eat other animals in the wild. They are not designed by Mother Nature to eat any vegetables. Why do we think we can change their basic nature? It is because of this basic fact of physiology that we at the Burke Veterinary Clinic recommend that cats only eat canned food. Dry food contains large amounts of carbohydrates. Carbohydrates cause the pancreas to produce large amounts of insulin which causes the carbohydrates to be converted to fats and stored. This leads to obesity in cats, and more importantly it leads to diabetes. Cats that produce lots of insulin throughout their lives can eventually "burn out" their insulin producing capacity and become diabetic. When cats have high levels of blood sugar from high carb diets, they can develop glucose toxicity which also results in diabetes. Obese cats can develop a fatal liver disease called hepatic lipidosis. These cats can only be saved by surgically implanting a stomach feeding tube and syringe feeding them for up to 2 months. Another important advantage of feeding canned food is the higher moisture content. Every mouse, bird, turtle, snake, or other animal that is eaten by cats in the wild is 80% water. Why do we think we can get away with feeding dry food that is zero percent water? The higher moisture content of canned foods improves urine production and decreases kidney and bladder problems.

For the above reasons, canned cat food is a "no-brainer." Unfortunately the worse diet you can feed is a mixture of canned and dry. It is like cheating on the Atkins diet. Even small amounts of carbs will trigger the insulin release that causes the glucose conversion to fat. DO NOT FEED CATS ANY DRY CAT FOOD. Even the most expensive cat foods on the market contain close to 30% carbs. A mouse is about 5% carbs. You don’t have to spend a fortune on premium cat foods. Basic store brands like Friskies® or 9-Lives® are fine. There is no evidence that kitten foods are any better that adult foods for a kitten, so feeding a kitten regular adult food is recommended. The average cat should eat 2-3 ounces of cat food 2 times a day. Believe it or not, the average cat should weigh between 5 and 8 pounds! Staying slim will add years to your cats life.

I know some cats don’t like canned food. My own cat refused to eat any canned food. Unfortunately she became diabetic and had to go on insulin injections 2 times per day. It took me a year to get her to like canned food, but persistence paid off. After 6 months of not eating dry food, she actually became non-diabetic and no longer needed insulin injections. Don’t let this happen to you. DO NOT FEED CATS DRY FOOD! EVER!!

Benefits of Spaying and Neutering

People tell me that pets should be spayed or neutered. Is that really important?

WHY NEUTER YOUR MALE PET?

Neutering male animals eliminates risks of testicular cancer later in life.
Neutering male animals greatly reduces the possibility of prostate disease. These problems occur frequently in older animals that are more at risk with regards to anesthesia and surgery.
Intact (non-neutered) male dogs have a much higher risk of perianal adenomas (tumors) and perineal hernias than do neutered dogs.
Neutering male dogs greatly reduces their desire to roam and wander from home. 80% of all dogs that are hit by an automobile are unneutered male dogs.
Intact male cats mark their territory by spraying foul smelling urine. Neutering will eliminate this.
Neutering will not make your pet fat. Overfeeding and some diseases lead to obesity.

Personality changes due to neutering are extremely rare. Neutered pets do not become "wimps." The only behavioral changes that are seen with neutering are a decrease in inter-male aggression, and a decrease in the desire to roam. We recommend that all male pets be neutered by 6 months of age.

WHY SPAY YOUR FEMALE PET?

Spaying your pet eliminates the risk of reproductive diseases like uterine infections, ovarian cysts, uterine cancer, ovarian cancer, and pyometra (infected uterus).
Spaying your dog before the first heat virtually eliminates the risk of mammary tumors (breast cancer). Each heat cycle that a dog has increases the odds that she will get breast cancer. Between 45-65% of dogs that are unspayed will develop mammary tumors.
Spaying eliminates the problems of bleeding 2x/year due to heat cycles, and the unwanted male visitors that will be around while your dog or cat is in heat.
Epileptic animals are prone to seizures while in heat. Spaying will decrease the incidence of seizures.
Spaying does not make pets fat and lazy. Overfeeding and certain medical conditions are the culprit in obesity. Most pets should be spayed by 6 months of age.

Best Dog Breed

Question: We're thinking of getting a new dog. What breed is best for a family with children?

Answer: Short breeds, tall breeds, no breeds, all breeds. My apologies to Dr. Suess, but unfortunately there is no particular breed that you can count on to reliably and consistently meet your requirements. The most important character trait for selecting a dog is the individual dog's temperament. Because the AKC and other breed sanctioning organizations have no specific requirements for gentle temperament in their breeding standards it is always a gamble when selecting a dog. I find myself quoting Forest Gump all too often, but selecting a dog is "like a box of chocolates. You never know what you are going to get."

I'll try to address a few of the common pit-falls in dog selection so the reader can have a better understanding of how to best find a dog that suits their needs. Keep in mind that up to 50% of all dogs are given up in the first year of ownership. The relinquishment is almost always because the owners never should have gotten the dog in the first place. They either didn't have the time (or the will) for proper training and socialization, or they acquired a dog that was completely unsuited for their situation. DON'T BE IN A HURRY, AND DON'T GET A DOG ON AN IMPULSE!!

Before selecting a dog ask yourself a few questions:

Do I want an adult or a puppy? Puppies are great fun and a great learning opportunity for the family, but they require an extreme amount of time to train and socialize. If you have very young children and work outside the home, you are not likely to have enough time to properly care for a puppy.

How old are my children? Most trainers recommend that you not get any dog until the youngest child is at least 7 years old. Most younger children do not have the capacity to behave appropriately around a dog, and unfortunate consequences result. Interpret this guideline based on your children's maturity and your capacity to supervise interactions between the kids and the dog. If your children are older, realize that the kids will leave home, and mom and dad will inherit the dog eventually. My experience tells me that no matter who the dog is acquired for, it ends up being "mom's dog." That is why mom's preferences get more weight than the others in the household during the dog selection process.

Do I want a big dog or a small dog? Each has their advantages and disadvantages. Many bigger breeds are calm and laid-back, but because of their size they can intimidate children. A big happy goofy dog will easily knock small children over. Smaller dogs are easier to handle as they are not big enough to pull you down the street or knock you over, but they often have dominant personalities that can be a challenge with training. While a dog may not be aggressive or try and bite your children, they may try and bite your children's friends. 90% of dog bites are from the family dog or the next door neighbor's dog.

Do you want a pure breed or a mutt? With pure breed dogs, you will usually have an idea of the size and type of dog, but I've seen the "friendly" breeds have poor temperaments and I've seen the "mean" breeds be the nicest dogs ever. Mutts are a nice choice because they are usually free (or very cheap), and they are plentiful. Many rescue groups will subsidize the early medical care including vaccinations and spay-neuter costs as well. Up to 50% of all dogs in shelters are purebred. This means that someone bred them, someone bought them, and someone gave them up.

One of my favorite things to hear is "we did a lot of research before we got this breed." Unfortunately the information about breeds is usually written by people that profit from the sale of that breed. You won't find much negative written about any breed. One important item to research is "what was the breed originally used for, and how does that impact its behavior?"

Sled dogs live in a pack of 20 other dogs in artic climates and have the energy to pull you across Canada. Herding breeds chase livestock and nip at their heels. Hounds chase rabbits all day long and bark repeatedly to tell you where the rabbits are. Terriers chase and kill small rodents around the farm. Guard dogs and dogs of war were sent into villages to kill as many people as they could before the soldiers came in to pillage. Toy breeds are shrunk-down versions of bigger dogs which brings health concerns. Big dogs are prone to hip dysplasia. Breeds that are very popular have been ruined by the puppy mill industry. Breeds that are very rare are so inbred that they have been ruined as well.

Another statement that I cringe over is "we got the dog from the best breeder around and this dog is from Champion lines." I got news for you. Virtually every purebred that enters our clinic has claims of champion lines. The phrase has become meaningless to me. I also find that the breeders that put on the best show to prospective buyers usually have the worst quality of dogs. Buyer beware!

Before you get any dog, ask a veterinarian for all the negatives they can think of about a breed type. Ask several dog trainers what breeds they see the most problems with. Don't rely on your friend, co-worker, or neighbor for substantial input. If at all possible, check out the parents of the dog and assess their temperament. Never buy a dog off of the internet without seeing it first. Keep in mind what the breed was originally intended to do.

I realize that the tone of this discussion may come off as somewhat negative, but if you heed my warnings you stand the best chance of getting a dog that will be a enjoyed by the family for many years. Good luck in your search for the right dog and as always, call us with any questions BEFORE you get the dog.